My name is Paul Kuhn. I have started this blog as a way to keep friends and family informed of my activities, and condition, while posted as a Peace Corps volunteer in Benin. This website is not intended to express the views of the United States Peace Corps or any other herein mentioned institution and should not be assumed to do so.

Friday, September 23, 2005

Je suis une voluntaire maintenant

I'm not sure if the title of this post is spelled correctly, but it says "I am now a volunteer." The reason I can make this claim is because I passed my language test. Hey, it only took two tries. We had our swearing in ceremony today and I have a few minutes before I head off to the well-deserved fete. Well-deserved for all of us.

Unfortunately the party is only with the people in my group. There's nothing wrong with the people in my group it's just that it would be nice to be able to see, and celebrate with, the other groups also. However, we have not been allowed to have a party in one place. Each group had to return to their training town before dark. At least we all got to see each other for a little while before we all went our separate ways to post.

I do have more good news as well. I have found the source of my sleeping problems here. Yes, it is hot and yes, it is noisy, but my main problem has been the medication I have been taking to prevent malaria. Several of the volunteers that have been here for a while told me they had the same problem. I spoke with one of the doctors and he confirmed restless sleep as a side effect. I switched medications Thursday. That night the electricity also went out for a number of hours after dark. The combination of new medication and the lack of blaring radios and TVs made for my first good nights sleep on this continent. I am now looking forward to many more restful nights here.

I leave for my post tomorrow (Saturday) morning. As I said before there is no internet connection in Ketou. I do not know when I will be able to update this blog, or even send out another email again. I will try to find reasons to get to another town with an internet connection as often as I can, but I only get two days a month vacation time. I can take more days away from post for work reasons though so I will try to make up as many reasons as I can.

Sunday I have to rent a truck and go to Sakete. I have bought all of the furniture of a volunteer who is leaving next week. In the meantime he is living in another town finishing up on projects so I can take the furniture anytime. Sakete is about a one hour drive south of Ketou. I have directions and the keys to the house so nothing can go wrong, right? Stay tuned, this is Africa.

Until I can write again I hope all is well with you and yours and rest assured I will be fine here.

Saturday, September 10, 2005

this and that

OK, another boring week of attending classes (often useless as well as boring imho) and struggling desperately to learn French. Our final language test is next Saturday, the 17th. I have been told that if I don't pass it (a distinct possibility although I'm sure I won't be far off) I would still go to post and receive some additional tutoring. The good news in that is that I won't have to stay in Azove any longer than I have to. Azove is a nice enough place with mostly good people (the other kind really are everywhere), but it is very noisy. It is fairly small but centrally located. There are three gudrones (sort of highways) that come through from different directions carrying a lot of traffic. Also, the marche (public market) occurs every five days. On those days the population of the city seems to more than double, clogging the streets, making a mess and, of course, creating even more noise. The third major noise source is children. This is Africa and there really are large families. In Benin the fertility rate is 6.6. Factoring in infant mortality that still means that the average family has about 6 children. I live in a densely populated part of town and there seems to be an endless supply of children. I seem to see new ones everyday. Of course, it is just that there are so many I can't remember all of their faces.

That description leads to the reason for my present whereabouts. I am in the medical unit in Cotonou again. No, I did not hurt myself again, neither did I get roughed up by a rogue gang of Beninoise toddlers. It is so noisy, and did I mention hot, in Azove that I have never slept more than 6 hours in a signle night. I would guess my average to be about 4 hours per night. Because of the accumulating sleep deprivation I have been slowly losing my ability to concentrate, and learn French. I have been somewhat distant from the others here as well as all I want to do is be left alone and sleep. Tuesday night I got no sleep at all and was completely unable to do anything on Wednesday. I had to ask my language facilitator to end class because it was a waste of time. My APCD happened to be in Azove for some of our classes and noticed my condition. He talked with me for a while to find out what was wrong. He then graciously offered up a weekend of R&R in the medical unit so that I could catch up on my sleep. I arrived Friday evening, leaving Azove after giving a formation in how to perform a feasibility study to a group of business owners. I slept for nine long, consecutive, restful, heavenly hours. By a happy coincidence there is no TV in the med unit right now. My APCD was in Azove to observe health classes. The classes included a number of videos so the doctor took the TV from the med unit. At the time of the classes there was no electricity in Azove. The doctor conducted the rest of the class and left the TV, VCR and tapes for us to watch at a later time. We have watched the tapes but nobody has figured out that the TV and VCR can be returned to Cotonou now. How this helps me is that with no TV there are far fewer people here, and much less noise and fewer distractions. I can sleep and study French all day. Who knows, I may even be able to pass my language test now.

Anyway, I'll return to Azove with the shuttle Monday morning and begin the final week of training. I have one more formation to prepare for as well as the aforementioned, and dreaded, language test. By the way, I don't know how much the business owners are getting out of the formations I give because of my French ability, or lack thereof, but they do help me with my French and to see how I can improve them for when I do know French and are giving them regularly to business owners in Ketou. Also, I have learned that there is another Peace Corps volunteer posted in Ketou now. He has been there for one year already. He will be able to help me in two ways from what I am told. First, he has been living there for one year already (I think I may have already said that but I'm not sure, I have been a little sleep deprived lately you know) so he knows the town. The good tailors, restaurants, buvettes, who and where to avoid etc. Second, he is Franco-American and has lived in France for about half his life. I am told that he is probably the best French speaker in the country. Also, he is a TEFL volunteer which means that he teaches language, just what I need.

After those two momentous events there is a week of administrative formalities and a trip to Cotonou to shop for things we will need at post. We will be departing for our posts starting sometime after Septemer 24th. Maybe I'll let you know if I pass my test before then.

There is bad news about my post though. There is no intenet connection in Ketou. The closest connection is 42 kilometres away (~30 miles) in Pobe (po-bay). That is an uncomfortable taxi ride of about one hour and 800 francs, each way. I only make 2500 francs a day so 1600 for the round trip is a big part of my weekly budget. I will try to get out emails and updates evey week once I get to post but I can't make any promises. Maybe one of my secondary projects will be to help somebody start up a cyber in Ketou. The city appears to be big enough to be able to support at least one. It is larger than Azove and there are three cybers there. I'll have to wait until I am there for a few months to be able to do anything like that though.

Well, whatever happens happens. (I think somebody smarter than me said that once so I'm sure I can repeat it if I like.) I'll keep updating whenever I can or have anything interesting to say. Not that I've said anything interesting yet that is, but who knows, maybe some day. Thanks for listening and see you later.

Sunday, September 04, 2005

Lost in Benin

AKA - Paul and Jennifers Excellent Adventure

I saved a story from last week just in case nothing much happened this week. Guess what? Nothing happened so you get to read the best story from last week.

On the way home from our post visits last weekend several of us stopped in Bohicon for a night. There are several volunteers posted there, and near there, so we spent some time with some of them. Saturday night we all, seven of us, went to a restaurant for dinner. After dinner we decided to go to a buvette (bar for you Anglophones) to have a couple of drinks before retiring for the evening. Also, the buvette had slot machines, what fun!

As I have mentioned before one of the transportation options for us is zemidjans, mopeds used as taxis. Leavng the restaurant after dinner we all got on zemidjans. One each, seven of us, seven zemidjans. The zemidjan that Jennifer and I got on lagged behind the others. By the time we got near the intended buvette we could not see any of the others and our drivers did not know where the buvette was exactly.

Jennifer and I decided to go back to the volunteers house where we were to spend the night and wait for someone to come and get us. We thought this to be a sound plan. The one flaw in this plan was that it was now dark and we could not see some of the landmarks we saw during the day.

We left the zemidjans when they got us close to our destination. We figured that it would be easier to find our way walking slowly instead of driving fast. Jennifers french skills; better than mine; and my sense of direction meant that we were never too far from our destination. After some time, about an hour, we had finally found the one landmark that would have led us to the house. Right then the volunteer drove by us on a zemidjan on the way to his house. He had been looking for us as we thought he would.

Everything turned out OK and in the end all that happened was that we lost some drinking time. But at least we can now say we have been lost in Benin. I'm sure it won't be last story I have to relate while I'm here. Hopefully, they will all turn out as well.