Ketou and the Oro

This was post visit week. For those of you who haven't been paying attention we all went, individually, to the site of our eventual posting. For me this meant a trip to Ketou in the southeastern part of the country.

We had a one and a half-day conference with our homologues. A homologue is the person that works for the host organization. A host organization is the group which sponsors us in their area. I am being sponsored by the CLCAM (an agricultural credit union organised by the national government). My homologue is the Gerant of the local CLCAM, analogous to a bank manager.

Immediately after the conference on Tuesday afternoon we drove to Ketou. Most others left on Wednesday morning in bush taxis but my homologue had come to Azove with his own car so we had a much eqsier voyage than most. I did have to come back by taxi but it was uneventful if somewhat uncomfortable. We left quickly because ther was an Oro fete in Ketou on Tuesday night that the Gerant did not want to miss. If you remember from earlier posts the Oro are a secret society, actually a Voodoo sect as I learned this week, who have been known to kill outsiders who witness their ceremonies, often held in public. Apparently I was slightly misinformed, they only kill women and those who do not respect the fete. Lucky me. Anyway, we got to Ketou on time, unloaded the car and walked the streets waiting for the Oro to appear. There is one being known as the Oro, from which the sect takes its name. I did get to see, and get touched by, the Oro. Since I was warned beforehand that I cannot talk of the experience to women for fear of their lives I can say no more. Women are not only not allowed to witness any ceremony, they are also not allowed to know any details or even talk of the Oro upon penalty of death. Driving into town and walking around after parking there were no women or girls to be seen. They were all inside their homes with the windows closed for the entire day. The next day was as if nothing ever happened though.

The rest of the week was spent meeting some of the local dignitaries and people that I would be working with, and of course seeing my eventual accomodations. Given what I witnessed and was told Tuesday evening and night I was extremely surprised, and pleased, to find that Ketou has a female mayor. I forget her name right now but I'm sure I'll be able to remember it after working there awhile. I also met some of the people on some of the administrative committees of the CLCAM. I don't know why so many of them live in Ketou but I'll find that out eventually also I'm sure.

I had a fair amount of spare time even with all of these introductions and was able to get some language study in also. I will get it eventually. I also learned some greetings in the local language, Nagot. I don't know how to spell them so I can't write them here now though.

Finally, my new house. It is not finished yet but nearly so. The outlets and wall switches have to be installed as well as a more appropriate lock put on the front door but otherwise it is fine. That's right folks you heard right, outlets and wall switches, I will have electricity. Yeah!!! Not all of us will. One of us is being posted to a village that has no electricity anywhere. Others are in cities with sporadic electricity. It never went out in Ketou while I was there and was told that it was reliable. I'll find out what that means soon enough. Electricity - yes, running water - no. Can't have everything I guess. There is, or will be, a robinet (faucet) just outside my building though, not too bad by Benin standards. There is one very large room with two good sized bedrooms. There is a separate room out back for the kitchen, a common arrangement in Benin. There is also a shower stall and outhouse in the backyard. The bqckyard is walled off with broken glass stuck into the top of the wall for security. The front yard is walled off as well with a locking gate. There is even enough room for a small garden for fresh vegetables.

My time is almost up at the cyber so I have to go now. Our schedule is fairly routine for now so I probably won't have an update for a couple of weeks. Be good.